Success of a Garage-Made Vintage Challenges Bordeaux's Traditions

Between 1999 and 2004, France's wine exports dropped 11 percent, while America's rose 49 percent, Chile's grew 96 percent, and Australia's exploded by 152 percent. France's share of world wine exports also dropped from 25 percent to 19 percent, while the combined share of the three other countries grew from 13.5 percent to 25 percent.

In international blind tastings, 80 percent of tasters prefer "sunnier, fruitier" wines from the overseas vineyards, "and if you try to force the consumer to accept the very old style of Bordeaux, it's a disaster," said Hubert de Bouard, president of the Saint-Emilion Winegrowers' Union.

Tags: wine, Bordeaux, French