Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen

Every enchilada's a winner
Sylvia's carne guisada, fajitas, guacamole and tres leches aren't bad either

Menudo also got high marks from someone besides Alison Cook. Why was I thinking that was a guy's name?

What surely must be the best green chicken enchiladas in town are on offer, with a tomatillo sauce so deep and complex, right down to its bass note of slight chile heat, that it sets a local standard.

The enchiladas Morelia, a treatment from the interior of Mexico, balances crumbly white cheese with an earthy red-chile sauce to excellent effect.

This is the kind of place I would take an out-of-town guest to prove that we really know how to eat here.

Too bad it is on the other side of Houston.

Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen: 12637 Westheimer; 281-679-8300

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays; 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays

Prices: starters $2.65-$9.75; entrees $7.25-$11.50; desserts $3.75-$4.95

Tags: restaurants, Alison Cook, Houston, Mexican