Tacos, tacos, tacos

Robb Walsh explores Mexican tacos around Gulfgate and the Airline Farmer's Market.

Doneraki at Gulfgate has Mexican and Tex-Mex but don't get the fatty gristly tacos al pastor. His complaints about that, however, lead him to discover that Houston has banned the traditional 'trompo' cookers and directions to Taqueria Monterrey. The taqueria has great Mexican pork tacos and even Mexican style sausage dogs.

Previously, Walsh had discovered delicious sweetbread tacos from a taco-truck on Airline Drive. No, it is not the tortilla that is "sweet bread."

Bernard took one bite of the tripe and expressed his amazement. "It tastes just like a good andouillette," he said, referring to the tripe sausage made in France. I've eaten some sketchy andouillette in France, so from my point of view, the tacos de tripita at Taqueria Tacambaro were far better than andouillette. The tubes of tripe were soft, with only the faintest offal flavor. A spritz of lime juice and a dollop of piquant green serrano sauce set off the tang of the intestines brilliantly.

Bernard was equally impressed with the sweetbreads, even though they weren't white and fluffy as they had been in the early morning. Now they were darker brown and denser, with a deeper flavor and a meatier texture. But they still tasted fantastic.

"These are the best sweetbreads I have had in Houston," Bernard said. "The chef from that bistro needs to come over here and take some lessons."

Bernard drank a mandarin Jarritos with his meal, and I had another Diet Coke. And we decided to do it again soon. But next time, we agreed, we would bring along a bottle of wine. I'm thinking a well-chilled Tavel Rosé would be just the wine to pair with tacos de mollejas.

Tags: Houston, good eats, restaurants, tacos