Saturday, March 24, 2007

Houston has the best tacos in the world

Robb Walsh doesn't quite write that but he should. When the land of gourmands France is writing about Houston tacos we have achieved culinary greatness. Some might argue for Mexico city but our beef fajitas make better tacos than stringy goat meat any day. Stop by a taco truck in Houston and check them out.

Three of the best:
Jarro Trailer
In front of Jarro Café
1521 Gessner

What to get: Don't miss the steak (bifstek) taco made with thin-sliced Angus sirloin. Also recommended: the Campechana (beef and chorizo), cochinita pibil (slow-cooked pork) and beef-and-mushroom tacos. Flour tortillas are available for a little extra. Don't miss the salsa bar. The dark-green jalapeño-and-cilantro salsa may be the mildest; the dried chile salsa is complex and picante. Only the most dedicated chile-heads should attempt to ingest the incendiary orange chile de árbol sauce and the rip-your-lips-off neon green serrano slurry. The food is a little cheaper and a little faster at the taco trailer, but they have the same tacos inside the air-conditioned restaurant, where you also get chips, ice water, knives and forks and an expanded menu.

Taqueria Tacambaro
2520 Airline Drive (Behind Canino's)

What to get: Tacos de mollejas and tripitas (sweetbreads and tripe) are awesome. If you don't like offal, try the spicy pork al pastor, crisped up in a frying pan and served with raw onion and cilantro, and the awesome gordita, made with a thick masa cake split in half, then stuffed with homemade refried beans and Mexican cheese. Don't miss the roasted jalapeños. Mexican nationals come from miles around to eat Maria Rojas's home-style Michoacán-style cooking.

El Ultimo
Southwest corner of Long Point and Antoine

Look for a shiny new taco truck parked in front of a car wash. The sanitary standards are exceptional. Both the man and woman behind the counter were wearing hair nets. What to get: The breakfast tacos are $1 a piece, and they're huge. They come with your choice of scrambled eggs with bacon, ham, potatoes, nopalitos, machacado (shredded beef), chorizo or roasted peppers on a corn or flour tortilla. The flour tortillas are handmade, and the chorizo is truly exceptional. The thick green salsa is pretty hot. There's no coffee, but there are fresh fruit aguas frescas available.
ALSO from the Houston Press:

These are expensive but I love good fresh scallops.

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