Lexington: Snow’s BBQ: Texas Monthly June 2008

The Best BBQ in the state of Texas is a small restaurant open only on Saturdays and only from eight in the morning until whenever the meat runs out, usually around noon.

The best BBQ in our area?

HOUSTON
Burns Bar-B-Que Cooking and Catering
Menu surprise: Extremely hot hot links. Seriously.
There’s always a line at this clapboard take-out shack. Plump, pink pork ribs, cooked over post oak in a steel pit for two and a half hours, were irresistible. Smoky brisket was fall-apart tender. Commercially made beef-and-pork links tasted decidedly uncommercial. The sauce was tangy, good for dipping ribs and links. The sole sides were mustardy potato salad and saucy beans, both made with care.
Rating: 4.75. 8307 DePriest, 281-445-7574. Open Wed—Sat 10:30— 7:30.
Closed Sun—Tue.

Virgie’s Bar-B-Que
Notable decor: Walls sanctified with religious iconography.
Three-plus years ago, Adrian Hands-borough converted the neighborhood convenience store his mom, Virgie, ran for 35 years and began cooking over oak and pecan in two small barrels. His brisket, only a tad fatty, smokes for ten to fourteen hours; we could cut ours with a plastic fork. Well-seasoned pork ribs boasted a generous meat-fat ratio, and beef sausage came on slow but strong. The thick, snappy sauce is sweetened with molasses. Host and dining room were both cheery and inviting.
Rating: 4.25. 5535 Gessner Dr., 713-466-6525. Open Wed—Sat 11—6:30.
Closed Sun—Tue.

HUNTSVILLE
New Zion Bar-B-Q
Be advised: Pre-bagged slices of white bread are waiting for you on the table already.
For some 29 years, holy smoke has wafted from ancient black pits in front of this rickety, low-slung hall next door to the New Zion Missionary Baptist Church. The provender that emerges from the glowing embers (mostly oak, with a little hickory and pecan mixed in) has funded congregational activities and created an East Texas legend. Was it just our imagination or were the ribs, brisket, chicken, and sausage even better than in the past? We said a little prayer of thanks. Then dug in.
Rating: 4.5. 2601 Montgomery Rd., 936-295-3445. Open Wed—Sat 11—6. Closed Sun—Tue.

Goode Company in Houston rates an honorable mention.

Odes to Texas eating.